On what proved a grey, cloud-covered day two of London Fashion Week Men’s, a vivid and typically eclectic series of shows had the effect of lighting up the capital. With a packed schedule of presentations split across multiple central London venues, the crowd zigzagged between venues and showrooms to avoid the inevitable clashes.
The early show at E.Tautz provided a sleek, deconstructed take on tailoring with tactile woollen pieces sitting alongside wide-legged pleated trousers and heritage tweed outerwear in a confident show from Patrick Grant’s Savile Row label. Shownotes pointed to scarecrows as inspiration — think check shirts and off-kilter hats — while whimsical details including smock necklines and popper fastenings added interest within the collection’s muted color palette.
Lou Dalton‘s late-morning presentation was anything but muted, with vivid painterly splashes across suiting, scarves and sneakers contrasting with lab-coat-white pieces that acted as an impeccably tailored blank canvas. Elsewhere, tactile knits and hats completed a presentation that enforced why Dalton is regarded so highly on the menswear circuit, while the collection was also trailed by a high-octane video that starred British actor Russell Tovey.
Meanwhile at the Topman venue at the Old Selfridges Hotel to the north of Oxford Street, the Fashion East presentation gave a platform to some of the UK’s emerging talent. Previous Fashion East graduates include Craig Green, Liam Hodges and Astrid Andersen and within its concrete-clad space, this year’s event showcased British duo Rottingdean Bazaar’s whimsical woolen wear and iron filing-embellished T-shirts, and Art School’s fluid, non-binary take on luxury.
Music played a large part in shaping two shows that followed, segueing from YMC‘s punchy, low-lit presentation — which was soundtracked by Factory Floor and featured an on-stage stand-off between models and attendees — to Oliver Spencer, who explored the cultural roots of music and fashion. His masculine 2017 Fall/Winter collection of velvet blazers, zig-zag knitwear and tartan tailoring played out with a swaggering, guitar-heavy soundtrack that featured raucous south London band, the Fat White Family.
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