Cult collective Vetements’ spring collection is set to include an unprecedented number of collaborations. The Paris-based fashion house will debut collaborative efforts with 18 different brands, including Carhartt, Levi’s, Canada Goose, Eastpak, Reebok, Alpha Industries, COMME des GARÇONS, Champion, Schott and, perhaps most surprisingly, Juicy Couture. Manolo Blahnik, Brioni, Lucchese, Mackintosh, Church’s, Dr. Martens and Kawasaki also contributed pieces to the collection.
Vetements’ entire aesthetic is built around reworkings of traditional pieces that distend, distort, and subvert their structure and fit. Past collections have featured reinterpretations of Alpha Industries’ bomber jackets, Levi’s jeans and, most infamously, that much-discussed DHL tee. These recreations were produced and manufactured in Vetements’ Italian factories, but they were always just that: approximations and imitations.
In pursuit of authenticity, brothers Demna and Guram Gvasalia directly approached the companies they admired and handed over the Vetements versions of their iconic designs: Carhartt for work-pants, Schott handled leather jackets, Brioni was tasked with fitted suit-jackets, Canada Goose for parkas, etc. The brands oversaw production and manufacturing of the pieces, leaving Vetements to distribute the collection to its stockists.
This idea of multiple collaborations echoes that of Vetements affiliate (and the DHL shirt’s original model) Gosha Rubchinskiy and his recent Pitti Uomo presentation, which included collaborations with retro Italian sportswear companies like Kappa, FILA and Sergio Tacchini, among others. The extent of this collaboration, however, is unprecedented.
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