Pigalle has come a long way since 2008, when its now ubiquitous box logo tees first flooded the Paris arrondissements between the 9th and the 18th. Led by the creative vision of Stephane Ashpool, the brand’s trajectory onto the runway was an inevitable feat given the Parisian designer’s appreciation for the fashion capital’s art scene, not to mention a past tenure producing shows for the likes of Rick Owens, Gareth Pugh and Christian Dior. The brand’s cut & sew extension displayed Pigalle’s refined side, one which could win over opinionated catwalk spectators without leaving behind its die-hard street following. Last night, Ashpool unveiled his 10th show for the brand. A man attached to numbers, the accolade hallmarked a new cycle for the designer.
Dubbed the EROS collection, the new line is an accumulation of Ashpool’s knowledge gained in the last five years and pays homage to a certain femininity found in men; furthermore, the erotism it can create. Soft color palettes are used to translate gentle themes of demure, as high-waisted trousers are paired with boxy jackets in nod to trends of the past. Retro, pastel colored pants feature button-snap closures, bomber jackets frayed in offbeat ways, while evocative prints offer artisanal characteristics associated with his home city. Logo branding is scarce, but nonetheless seeps through in subtle elegance, printed under mesh lining or intertwined in kaleidoscopic panels. In all, the collection is a repertoire celebrating Ashpool’s evolution with the brand, and while the pieces may come off audacious to some, its provocative nature is only an honest reflection of the namesake boulevard, synonymous with the brand’s bold aesthetic.
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