maharishi presents its newest lookbook in a video that uniquely displays its 2015 spring/summer season range – the “Viet-Afghan Coalition Tour” collection. Inspiration came from the culture and silhouettes found in the Middle East, namely the rich heritage of the Afghan region, as well as the travels of Italian conceptual artist, Alighiero Boetti, who in 1967 became the first artist to present military fabrics in a fashion context.
This season sees hooded sweats and baggy harem pants, paired with long T-shirts that come in a variety of hemlines that create textured layers. Telo Mimetico military jumpsuits are reworked into long-fitted pants and Vietnam War era-styled Tour Jackets. The models sport variations of the Shemagh and the Keffiyeh (Afghan head scarves) to complete the look. Modern fabrics are incorporated into the collection, such as pashmina, organic cotton and lightweight, waterproof nylon cloth with Mat-Air technology, which was developed in Italy. A variety of vibrant patterns are also featured, such as an embroidered map of the Helmand Province of Afghanistan, the Telo Mimetico camouflage, and maharishi’s classic DPM: Bonsai Forest, that are also used to accent details like pockets, facings, linings and seam bindings throughout the collection.
As for accessories, vintage Italian military half-shelter tents were deconstructed to make bags out of the fabrics. The bags were also ceremonially blessed, washed in saffron water and smudged with herbal incense to cleanse the pieces of their military associations. Weaving patterns and embroidery throughout contain peace and good luck symbols as a final dissociation from war.
maharishi’s unique approach to cloth-making involves the recycling of vintage military garments and the camouflage pattern in particular has been prevalent throughout the brand’s history since its inception in 1994. Check out the lookbook video above and keep an eye out for the pieces at the brand’s online store.