Kazuki Kuraishi x adidas Originals by Originals: REAL STYLE of KZK Interview

In the third issue of “Felicity”, adidas sat down with Japanese designer Kazuki Kuraishi to talk about his sense of design and vision, the present and the future, and his current personal style. The piece also dissects the ObyO KZK range; its inspirations and inner workings of the collaborative venture between Kazuki and the adidas Originals by Originals program. The interview in its entirety can be read below.

First of all, what’s your personal style like these days?

K: To put it simply, it’s mainly layering. I would start with something like long, cut-and-sewn innerwear, and then put on layers of garments over it. Last winter for instance, I was wearing a rain jacket over a long coat.

Where did that idea come from initially? Did something inspire you to dress that way?

K: I was given this underwear from NUMBER (N)INE a while ago, but it happened to be quite long. And as I continued to wear this underwear, I suddenly found myself wearing a few layers of garments all the time.

And before that?

K: I’m not sure. Layering has always been my favourite style and it’s just that it became longer in length. Also, if anything, perhaps I used to favor ribbed garments more. Regardless of season, knit and cut-and-sewn garments I was wearing were mostly ribbed. Needless to say, you would’ve found many ribbed pieces among the stuff I designed then.

So did you approach this season’s ObyB KZK on the assumption that they would be “layered”?

K: Yes. I definitely designed with layering in mind. Whether it’s the length and the width, or the fit, I was very aware of trying to come up with pieces suitable for such styling.

Would you say that sort of awareness wasn’t there two years ago, when ObyO KZK was launched?

K: Well, I did give thoughts to coordination to a certain degree from the very beginning, but I was more conscious of making very much self-contained products. You know, ultimately, style is defined by the individuals who wear that piece of clothing. So my feelings back then were more like, it’s not for me to intrude into that territory.

Perhaps there les a significant difference. Do you now feel that your own style comes first, and then products are made as extension of that style?

K: Absolutely. I suppose I’m taking on a little more subjective view in my creative process.

Was that change brought about by change in your working environment?

K: It hasn’t changed much. I mean, your values and aesthetic tastes cannot be swayed. But you could say that there may have been a “shift” in a positive sense in my attitude.

And that wasn’t there before?

K: At the moment, apart from ObyO KZK, I’m in charge of Japanese affiliate of British brand CASHCA. Through this collaboration, I was able to learn in earnest fundamental aspects of clothes making. I was able to reaffirm which sewing method is suited to achieve beautiful silhouettes, how best to highlight details like buttons and stitches, and so on. Really, I could physically experience profundity of what clothes making is all about. Plus, Takahiro Miyashita had a significant impact on me. He’s a designer in the truest sense of the word. I deepened my love for clothes through various conversations I had with him.

So that difference in what motivates you to make clothes is reflected on this season’s ObyO KZK collection?

K: This is the season where you might be able to catch a glimpse of evolution taking place. I was able to reduce the weight of standard shell jacket to the lightest ever, and with this first collaboration with LUKER BY NEIGHBORHOOD, I tried to make designs tight and solid in order to express their worldview accurately. And overall, these days, I personally give such detailed instructions as how everything should be sewn. Like, ‘If you can’t sew it this way, then try this other way.’ This season’s ObyO KZK products came into being through the process of adding these small changes in my awareness.

You’re saying that these products clearly indicate you have reached a new height. So, are you beginning to see what products you should be making for ObyO KZK? In other words, are you beginning to see what your style look like?

K: Yes. I think I have a clear picture of what I should be aiming to create through ObyO KZK project, what it looks like in a completed form.

So what does that exactly mean?

K: Well, you know, I guess that answer was pretty self-explanatory.