Sit in barber chair, tell Gianni that I part on the right and sweep the left slightly toward the rear, tapered and squared. Wait 20-30 minutes, look up, give a nod, give a $20, done. Man's been cutting hair for near 40 years, in the oldest shop in a 100km radius. I ain't about to tell him -how- to do his job. Gotta have that trust. Sat down and had him say, 'you don't really need a cut, just a thinning'. Let him do his thing, exactly what I wanted.
As for hair schmutz, I use Alberto MattClay for the hold. Dirt cheap @ ~$5 a canister. Likkabit of hairspray on the part and a likkabit less on the front that's swept a bit. Never loses the part, doesn't get crunchy, and easily fixable if the wind is being a jerk. Condition on the daily, wash every 2-3 days.