With Versace still stuck in the 80ies, Dolce & Gabbana hopelessly lost in gypsy kingdom and Costume Nationale using more black than an emo teenager, we weren't per se surprised by Jil Sander. However, the expectation to blow our minds were met with the colorful autumn / winter menswear collection in Milan. As the first one of yesterday, and one of the best, Jil Sander marks the start of what Milan should look like.
Known for its use of vivid colors, even in the coldest of seasons, this collection was mild in that aspect compared to others. The colors weren't as energetic as previous winter collections, the soundtrack was not as lighthearted as one would've hoped (Scott Walker was eerier than Alexander McQueen), but the combination of the darker colors, the monochrome setting of the stage and the soundtrack made an impeccable moments that at the end of the day still roam my mind.
The first direction that surprised me most was Jil Sander going for sleeveless. As she's more of a traditional designer going for the more traditional tailoring, this look was very different of what I had expected. Especially this look was a contrast for what seemed to be a more nostalgic Sander when looking at the three button jackets and the mysteriously textured fabrics and elongated knitwear that reminded us of the designers oeuvre before she left to Uniqlo. It seems Japan loosened her up a little.
Jacket wise, the label was on point and inspiring. While some brands hopelessly try to create memorable centerpieces for their collection, especially menswear being so hard to go radical with as we are not an easy crowd to change, Jil Sander has no problem creating favorites without stirring up the crowd. Nothing dangerous, nothing radical, nothing absurd, just something familiar in a very new jacket ready to be worn every day you feel at your best. One would almost say that Jil came close to being as great at jackets as Christopher Bailey at Burberry.
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for the full review and more images of the collection.