Fashion season had officially started yesterday morning with the start of the London Fashion Week Menswear showings for the Fall/Winter. As today's shows finally ended with the James Long show, it feels like 2013/2014 is going to be something else fashion wise. One very promising show was that of Alexander McQueen. The fashion house showed yet again that it can stand strong without their beloved designer, as their show was the best yet.
On entry of the show, the eerie, sinister music immediately set the tone for the coming half hour. With various well known faces on the front row, as one might expect for such a highly celebrated brand, and the old Savile Row inspired location with hardwood dark-brown distorted floors and models coming and going from two big antique opened doors showing a formal setting. If anything, the atmosphere demanded an intoxicating anticipation and tension.
One thing that caught my eye was the grooming. With the first model walking in, their slick hair and pale, smooth faces, not to forget to mention the plastic face masks that walked straight out of a creepy thriller. For the actual collection, it seems that the design team at McQueen were tired of the same old pinstripe pattern and decided to update it to a more fragmented form. The sharp line-work plays with the perception of the cut and transforms something that seems reserved for cool fathers and successful older businessmen into an edgy killer design for the younger generation. Not that my old man couldn't play it off, but it is definitely a bolder and very smart look.
Another look that caught most of the rooms attention was their use of the red and black contrast, which was made popular again by Givenchy last year with their crewneck sweaters. McQueen had heads turning with this collection's patchwork long jacket, which had velvet in it, as well as the turtleneck and an overcoat that fused bold and sophisticated and for once showed soft shoulders. Praised was the signature raised pagoda shoulder which several designs boasted as they went through the room, as well as a lot of stronger shoulders and powerful silhouettes.
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The Lavish World: Alexander McQueen AW13 Menswear Collection in London