brands do make a name for themselves out of organic growth, almost all businesses in general do. But what I'm getting at more is when The Hundreds, ssur, undefeated, bape, anything etc. got started, streetwear was this relatively new thing that only a few people knew about, which was really the entire appeal of it. It was something different that some people knew about, but was still sub-cultural. Now, what we think of as streetwear could be considered mainstream style and consequentially one that has lost a lot it's uniqueness.
Early on, you didn't have to have a quality, original, authentic brand. As long as you had some edgy t-shirt graphics, you could sell and build from there. Today, people don't buy into that stuff anymore because it's been used over and over. In my opinion, they don't care about small brands anymore. And as a result you have this weird in between period in a culture (like right now) where the customer is there from before, waiting for something equally as sick, but doesn't care to invest time and a little money in a young company starting out because they are literally all still just shittier versions of the brands who made it 10 years ago.