Small DENIM Questions Thread

Jul 13, 2011 @ 15:52
Ben Sherman Raw Denim or Unbrandeds?

InternetEnlightenment.tumblr.com → KoFax

Jul 14, 2011 @ 04:39
^No experience with Ben Sherman raw denim and there isn't much information about them but the Unbrandeds are very nice! Check out: http://www.withoutwash.com/
Jul 16, 2011 @ 18:04
today i got some Nudies Grim Tim's in 28 x 34 but my true waist size is 30, will these stretch in the waist?

hb fell off / justinlifestyle.tumblr.com

Jul 18, 2011 @ 14:08
I have a pair of Levis Matchstick Kaihara selvedge, knee down it's too baggy, would i be able to taper 1/2 an inch from the knee down from the inside seam, without it looking too weird? I also intend on cuffing.

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Jul 18, 2011 @ 15:35
I have a pair of Levis Matchstick Kaihara selvedge, knee down it's too baggy, would i be able to taper 1/2 an inch from the knee down from the inside seam, without it looking too weird? I also intend on cuffing.


That should look fine.
Jul 19, 2011 @ 10:43
ok so im watching a pair of diors on ebay that i wanted and the seller mentioned they were hemmed so i asked him what they were hemmed to and he says "the outer seam is approx 102cm."

so maybe im a moron but 102 cm = 40inches? what does he mean by this, the outer seam is dif from the length im assuming but what would it come out to? like a 34 length?
Jul 19, 2011 @ 10:52
ok so im watching a pair of diors on ebay that i wanted and the seller mentioned they were hemmed so i asked him what they were hemmed to and he says "the outer seam is approx 102cm."

so maybe im a moron but 102 cm = 40inches? what does he mean by this, the outer seam is dif from the length im assuming but what would it come out to? like a 34 length?


He's probably measuring from the top of the waistband to the hem along the outer leg seam. Ask him to measure on the inner leg seam from the crotch to the hem.

Or, if you know the back rise measurement, you can subtract that number from the outseam measurement to get a rough idea of the inseam.

Either way, I think these have a short leg. Possibly 30" at most, more likely shorter than that.
Jul 25, 2011 @ 22:48
Heavier the denim =?
Jul 26, 2011 @ 02:37
ive always worn APC's and i just spent the extra money at SelfEdge in LA and copped some Imperials x SelfEdge and they are best jeans ever
Jul 26, 2011 @ 04:32
Heavier the denim =?


Heavier denim is usually a lot more durable and they take longer to stretch out. Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I don't think that denim weight has very much effect on the fades they produce. There are a lot of factors that go into how denim is spun, how indigo reacts to diff kinds of denim, wearer's lifestyle, etc.

In the words of N&F's guarantee for the 32oz denim: "uncomfortable or your money back!"

what are some good designer jeans that you guys can recommend for me? i'm liking how the RRL's look but was curious what other brands were out there for me. dior is another company suggested but their prices are a bit higher than i'd be willing to spend right now. probably no more than $200 at the moment. and no true religion jeans please!


If you'd be willing to stray from "designer" jeans and check out Tellason, I'd highly recommended. I honestly think it's the best bang for your buck for $200. They're probably a lot better than more expensive pairs too :p

Raleigh denim also has awesome denim for $300, Naked and Famous uses nice Japanese raw denim and their price points are really good and you can usually find pairs on sale. Rogue Territory and 3sixteen are also putting out some awesome jeans you should look into.

ive always worn APC's and i just spent the extra money at SelfEdge in LA and copped some Imperials x SelfEdge and they are best jeans ever


Sweet, the Self Edge collabs always look amazing!! Get some pics up man!
Jul 26, 2011 @ 11:20
Heavier the denim =?


Heavier denim is usually a lot more durable and they take longer to stretch out. Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I don't think that denim weight has very much effect on the fades they produce. There are a lot of factors that go into how denim is spun, how indigo reacts to diff kinds of denim, wearer's lifestyle, etc.


I agree with everything above, except IME, heavier denim doesn't take any longer to stretch out than lighter denim, so long as their weave tensions are similar. Tighter-woven denim of any weight takes longer to stretch out, and stretches less, than looser-woven denim.

One thing that I do want to add is that heavier denim tends to be smoother, softer, and less slubby than lighter denim.
Jul 26, 2011 @ 14:41
^That's right, again there are a lot of factors that contribute to how the denim will wear so denim weight doesn't matter too much. It makes sense that tighter-woven denim would take longer to stretch out. I guess it just depends on how many bruises you want on your legs :p
Jul 26, 2011 @ 17:49
For those around LA, whats the best place to get jeans tailored? Denim Therapy (I think this one used to be called Denim Doctors)? Selfedge? Any others? Just looking for the best price to speed to quality combo. Anyone have some ideas...
Jul 27, 2011 @ 00:25
Do only special tailors do chainstiched hems?
Jul 27, 2011 @ 01:12
For those around LA, whats the best place to get jeans tailored? Denim Therapy (I think this one used to be called Denim Doctors)? Selfedge? Any others? Just looking for the best price to speed to quality combo. Anyone have some ideas...


Kind of depends on what work you want done. I'm more comfortable doing my own alterations but if you wanted a super deep taper and hem with seashell stitching you should go to the experts.

Do only special tailors do chainstiched hems?

Usually but not always.
Jul 27, 2011 @ 03:09
Contemplating getting a cheap hem from chinatown, will my selvage get fucked up?
Jul 27, 2011 @ 04:24
Do only special tailors do chainstiched hems?


You need special equipment (a Union Special or something similar) to do a chainstitch hem, and most tailors don't have this type of equipment. Therefore, tailors that do a chainstitch hem are uncommon, but there are enough of them around, and there are at least a few places that accept mail-ins if you can't find someone local to do this for you.

Contemplating getting a cheap hem from chinatown, will my selvage get fucked up?


No, it will be fine as long as they don't do the so-called "original hem".
Jul 27, 2011 @ 10:55
^^ thanks. can anyone name a place that does mail-ins?
Jul 27, 2011 @ 13:00
^^ thanks. can anyone name a place that does mail-ins?


Denim Doctors and Blue in Green are both good ones that take mail-ins. Both are excellent and do a good job matching the thread of the original pre-existing hem.
Jul 27, 2011 @ 17:44
Places in NYC to get PRPS, Neighborhood and Fenom jeans??

cheers!
Jul 27, 2011 @ 22:16
Why are my stacks not symmetrical? Right leg looks awesome, left looks sloppy. Normal or are my legs weird?
Jul 28, 2011 @ 00:06
It's normal. Wabi-sabi.
Jul 28, 2011 @ 00:38
You need special equipment (a Union Special or something similar) to do a chainstitch hem, and most tailors don't have this type of equipment. Therefore, tailors that do a chainstitch hem are uncommon, but there are enough of them around, and there are at least a few places that accept mail-ins if you can't find someone local to do this for you.


No, it will be fine as long as they don't do the so-called "original hem".
O gosh that happened to me on my PBJs luckily theres still alot of length left to get rid of it, need to drop it off at selfedge. It's soooo ugly. Good tailors did it, but just a naturally ugly hem.
Jul 28, 2011 @ 13:39
http://hypebeast.com/forum/showthread.php?t=156219


Question and pics are in that thread. Need help!!!
Jul 29, 2011 @ 11:30
^^ thanks. can anyone name a place that does mail-ins?


Blue Owl Workshop and all the Self Edge (NY,SF,LA) locations also do mail-ins!
Jul 29, 2011 @ 11:39
Places in NYC to get PRPS, Neighborhood and Fenom jeans??

cheers!


I don't think anyone in NYC carries Neighborhood since Union NY closed. Couldn't find much on Fenom either.

Here are the stockists of PRPS in NYC!

Atrium
644 Broadway

Barney's
575 5th ave

Scoop
532 Broadway, 4th floor
Jul 29, 2011 @ 17:05
Will raw denim leave stains on light colored leather car seats? Specifically NF denim.
Jul 29, 2011 @ 17:19
@orucker
its normal, especially the wider leg opening.

@gnu
call up Gary's Custom Tailoring & Boutique in Westwood. those "denim professionals" are overpriced.

@indofulioh
i doubt it, unless your shifting all over the seat.
but if you're nervous, bring something to sit on (cushion, tshirt, towel..etc)

--------
i have a pair of lightweight raw denim. whats a good way to form good creases and combs on it? i thought about putting it on and spraying water on the vital spots (bottom of leg, waist, back of knee) and wearing it for the day to help the folds set.

$81 selvedge denim: https://www.weargustin.com/invite_from/4200 Karmaloop/Plndr Rep: SLAP20.

Jul 30, 2011 @ 01:46
@indofulioh don't worry about any denim bleeding on your seats. I have an s2000 with tan seats and have been sitting on it like everyday for a year with my nf jeans and nothing has happened. I live in Vancouver too where it rains a loooot, and still nothing so you should be good. There are a lot of leather car cleaners that work crazy well too if any does go on it a little bit, so don't worry about it!

@lwkeung i need a pair of lightweights for this summer man haha, which ones do you have? Best way to get some combs and other creases on lighter denim is starching them. Starch makes em crispy and allows you to get those deep creases. It's pretty easy too, like you said you're gonna wanna spray the parts where you want the contrast to show in the creases a little more, but instead of plain water its best to create a starch water mixture. Get some warm/hot water and gradually put a few teaspoons of corn starch so it doesn't clump or you can buy starch spray, whatever your preference is.. and just spray the areas you want there to be some better creases. Then wear them and let the creases form. Hope that helps!
Jul 30, 2011 @ 14:17
Blue Owl Workshop and all the Self Edge (NY,SF,LA) locations also do mail-ins!


Actually, Self Edge only accepts mail-ins for hemming if the jeans were purchased directly from them. They will not do mail order hemming on jeans purchased elsewhere.

Will raw denim leave stains on light colored leather car seats? Specifically NF denim.


I've had it happen.
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