My natural Island ways shine thru-1st time surfing…
December 17, 2009
I'm born and breed New Yorker. Not a transplant. I hate the beach. Jones beach, orchard beach. Nasty compared to the west coast or hawaii or any of these destinations I've been too.
So I've never liked the beach. Even when I lived out in hawaii... on top of that I can barely swim.
BUT, this time around i decided to try surfing.
Day 1 was at manly beach in the sydney australia. Pretty bad conditions, and only 45 minutes to try it out. Couldn't catch a wave, but got an idea of what it could be like out there, and boy howdy, it was NOT easy.
Yesterday arrived at the Gold Coast - which seems to be the surfing capital of the world.
The beach that I was on is where one of the quicksilver roxy super contests are held yearly.
On my 1st try out on day 2 of surfing - BAM . Stood up and caught a wave.
By the 3rd time I was ready to paddle in, and after faceplanting one try, I paddled thru and caught a nice 15 second ride 
It must be my islander blood... and further confirmation that if I grew up in Cali I would have been a hippy ass surfer dude.
Shaka bra.
I'm envious. Here I am getting ready to go out shoveling snow and I see someone surfing. LOL!
Great - wish I could do it.