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NAISSANCE‘s Fall/Winter 2013 showing was designer Takashi Kumagai‘s first at Tokyo Fashion Week and a distinct departure from spring’s American surfer vibes. Crossing the pond, the collection channeled a turn-of-the-century aesthetic — exaggerated bowlers, driving caps, stockings — melded with punk influences and mod-inspired touches courtesy of duffle coats and leather jackets. Fall/winter’s color palette, meanwhile, was appropriately somber — the garments awash with earthy tones and plaids punctuated by pops of orange, red and white. Kumagai — also an accomplished lensman — set each of the looks against a photographic backdrop of bleak, rural landscapes, the result of which was a serious debut by one of Tokyo’s leading renaissance men.