A chain stitch is a double lock stitch named after its resemblance to the links of a chain. It was the stitch of choice used to hem jeans because of its strength combined with flexibility, allowing for the natural movement of denim. The traditional machine for the job was the Union Special 43200G, on which the hemming was done in a circular motion, creating a torque in the hem, and causing the roping effect that is highly sought-after amongst denim purists. At Self Edge, all hemming services are done on Union Special 43200G chain stitching machine using traditional methods which offer an appropriate treatment of one of fashion’s most revered materials. Self Edge Los Angeles’s Johan Lam takes us through the process of hemming with the Union Special.
Photography: Brandon Shigeta