Hiroshi Tsubouchi 2012 Spring/Summer Collection Preview & Interview

Shoe designer Hiroshi Tsubouchi has revitalized the traditional dress shoe for Spring/Summer 2012 and recently launched a pop-up exhibition at the Intelligent Design office in Harajuku. The Japanese shoemaker has been known for juxtaposing aesthetics of classic designs with a twist of contemporary colors and materials. For the upcoming season, Hiroshi Tsubouchi keeps his signature touch as the contrasting elements of classic and pop will surely stand out next to anything else on the racks. Each pair is made in Japan, ensuring quality, style and comfort.

We recently conducted an interview with Hiroshi Tsubouchi, who gives us a better understanding of the brand’s philosophies and manufacturing process. The interview in its entirety can be read below.

Was there any source of inspiration behind the Spring/Summer 2012 collection that differed from previous seasons?
For Spring/Summer 2012 I wanted to maintain the overall aesthetic of classic dress shoes designs. Of course there are some new styles and color additions for the upcoming season as the collection are more colorful compared to Fall/Winter 2011 items, but overall the feeling is the same as with other collections I did in the past seasons.

What sorts of challenges arise from building collection to collection for every season? Were there any barriers that you felt you had to overcome for this collection?
Quality control is unquestionably the top priority for my products and everyone involved continue to strive for the best quality we could achieve every season. The biggest barrier would be getting factories to manufacture the shoes according to my desirable design. It is also undeniable that getting the shoes to fit perfectly into different feet and sizes is an immense task. Also sometimes limited resources such as limited leather stock also become the pain we have to overcome.

When working on this new collection, do you feel there are boundaries when it comes to designing?
I never get limited in designing. I always concentrate on new ideas and have freedom in designing.

Innovative designs are elements that really define Hiroshi Tsubouchi shoes from similar brands out there. How do you personally describe your collections?
I always love classic designs such as the oxford, blucher and the wingtip. I always wanted to maintain this heritage design while spicing them with my taste for color and design. I would call them as classic with a twist.

So what are the exciting twists and spins that you put into the upcoming Spring/Summer 2012 collection?
For Spring/Summer 2012 I had the pleasure to add rubber and shark-sole on some models as well as playing with different types of materials just like I did on a canvas Cordovan model. I love to put bright colors wherever I can, as you can see pop colors are evident in some shoes especially on the derby models. Apart from the dress shoes, a few casual sandals and sneakers with brogue detailing are also scheduled to be release for Spring/Summer 2012. In addition, perhaps no one would ever realize this but normally there are five grommets on traditional dress shoes, however for some of my collections including the Saddle Oxford, I have custom-made my shoes to have six grommets instead of five.

What are your thoughts on the outcome?
Personally I believe that shoes should be a joy to wear and I hope I have conveyed that philosophy through my designs. Hopefully those overseas will feel it too.

What are your favorite pieces from the Spring/Summer 2012 collection? Do you have any new styles your upcoming collection that has you feeling really excited?
That is difficult to answer because I have thoughts and concepts for every singly item. However, I custom-made one wingtip brogue design that I call “Ultra Crazy Pattern,” and it’s made of eight different colored layers of leather on the outer. I have never seen something similar out there and I particularly find this model completely unique and pop.

Do you find competition in the footwear industry tough while you are using the traditional production method, meanwhile the market that is becoming very saturated and mass-production is common these days?
It is not easy, as the business world has focused less on craftsmanship and more on simply selling things. My focus has always been the same – to produce limited edition handmade shoes with premium that people would embrace. As an example, each model from the Spring/Summer 2012 collection is produced strictly to 12 pairs only per design. I believe that sticking to this manufacturing process actually has its own benefit as retails such as BEAMS order from us because they know right away that we have worked hard in manufacturing our shoes.

You’ve traditionally made all your shoes in Japan. Are there any particular reasons?
For me it is about finding the best manufacturer to produce a particular product. I have worked with different factories in Japan and each one has its own strength. It is unquestionable that made in Japan products have a good standard and are finished off with immaculate attention to detail.

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