Ian Paley: The Globetrotter | Hypebeast

Given the relative ease in creating more Western-friendly sizing, you’d think there would be greater diversity in size offerings. Touching upon Japanese factories, how do you think they are handling the influx of Chinese production over the last few years. I know you’ve mentioned that the low costs associated with countries such as China coupled with Japanese business interests, these markets have ultimately yielded some positive outcomes.

These things are only easy if the brand has that very non-Japanese business model of the owner doing everything! I’m not a factory owner so I can’t really comment on how they are doing. The interest has to be in the joint ventures that are popping up all over China, really the best of both worlds. You know when you are the top end of the market there are only certain factories that you can use. China has really embraced the idea of specializing. Most of the industry knows that mass production has moved on to other countries but where China is smarter is that they are encouraging to create joint ventures and to specialize production that can cater for the standards required for high end products. Already the benefits for these ventures are clear. The economy of Japan is really languishing in the sort of debt that requires the sort of fund raising that only sir Bob can muster up. It’s a deep deep hole that hopefully the new thinking in working with China will help them start the long climb out of the domestic black hole they are in. In terms of costs, at our end of the market there are no low costs, and again for this type of product it’s a misconception that it’s cheaper to make in China. My old man used to work in the TV manufacturing industry and I remember clearly when Japanese products started appearing in Europe in the late 70′s they were lambasted as poor quality, cheap inferior goods. Of course it was untrue, it was a simple sound bite that is/was easy to understand and easy to take on as opinion. I think with everything that is going on we are reaching a similar turning point of opinion. In terms of producing, there is really no better place to produce a premium quality product with fabric rooted in Japanese mills, skilled workmanship and a deep knowledge of craft and construction that has come from the roller coaster that the Chinese garment industry has traveled on.

We’ll see by the time China shakes its stigma of low-quality goods, whether or not the focus will still be on lower-tiered and relatively low-skilled productive versus more technology based angles. Regardless, I think that China’s production means are there, but you just need to sort of guide them along the whole process. From a design point, what aspect of fashion do you enjoy designing the most whether it be bags and accessories, footwear or outerwear? Any particular reason why?

Any chance I actually get to sit down and be creative. It’s almost impossible to allow yourself time to really scrutinize what you do. Designing shoes is a real treat for me as I’m not trained to do it but have learned a lot working with some good factories over the last few years. I once also designed a range of watches that I particularly loved and could easily see myself in and shed up a mountain somewhere tinkering with the innards of time. Well executed details in any product always attract me.

So having finished off with that last line… when will we see you holding the title of Ian Paley the furniture designer or something to that effect?

I suppose it has a lot to do with getting older, you tend to invest in products that are more considered. I’m a huge fan of Charlotte Perriand & Jean Prouvé. I guess furniture in general is pretty inspiring because it has to be 100% successful to be a definitive product, something that you can use everyday that just gets better and better. I also really admire what the guys at Linde Werdelin are doing with their new watches, I’m a friend of Jorn the owner so I always get a sneak at what’s coming and it’s hugely inspiring.

As we round out this interview, you’ve inevitably had some great experiences involving various facets of fashion. What would you say are some of your most important revelations and advices you’ve come across pertinent to the fashion and retail industry?

It would be something that I admire, desire and appreciate even if it’s outside of my comfort zone. In truth, I would love to be in product design because when you get it right, it’s done. I think our little world changes too quickly which is not always to it’s benefit. Daily it becomes clearer that we are moving back to a direct-to-customer system, whether it is via your own store or online. I think you have to believe that no one can explain your ideas better than you can and there isn’t really a better time to set up shop. People need to believe that they are buying into something that is real, it exists, you can probably generate a staggering amount of press and chat online about a product that in reality doesn’t really need to actually exist. After all, the need to “talk” about products has sadly replaced the need for wearing them. My advice in all aspects of the clothing industry is to track down and try on.

Thanks a lot for this insightful talk and best of luck with everything surrounding Garbstore.