American contemporary menswear line Duckie Brown continues its tradition of fine tailoring with strong materials and fabrics for its 2010 spring collection. In stark contrast from recent collections, the theme at hand is “exposure and vulnerability”, as each piece serves as a strong representation of this concept. Materials and patterns are paramount, while the use of sheer materials over both traditional and more contemporary pieces of fashion is a nice touch.
After taking the ideas of protection and coverage to extremes in recent seasons, Duckie Brown’s Daniel Silver and Steven Cox now look to explore the opposites: exposure and vulnerability. The designers also left behind their jocular flourishes in favor of a grown-up and sophisticated attitude. Gauzy T-shirts and sheer silk shirts, printed with refreshing vertical stripes and oversize plaids, lent a leisurely sensuality to the airy and refined collection. Light tweeds and flaxen fabrics, made into relaxed blazers and safari jackets, served as the counterpoint to the gossamer tops, while frontal pleating and angled side seams pumped volume into chic shorts.
Skimpy swimsuits — flimsy, ruched and high waisted — were obviously intended to provoke, but even those were on key with the overall island-holiday tone. The only downside to the designers’ light touch was it left the show a bit undermerchandised.