A.P.C.: An Interview with Jean Touitou
It’s all repressed?
And then they do the worst excess, sexually, alcohol, drugs etc. They do have to open themselves up to the world. I think the people in Europe and America would like things in Japan a lot. For the kids, I think a brand like BAPE (R) is among the best, but it is quite hard to find.
How do you feel about the statement about A.P.C. regarding “we make noise not clothes”?
It’s true but it’s not true. If you stop making news, you’re “dead”. Sometimes you need to make some news, under the radar noise. Not too loud but you do have to make some noise. It’s very hard to do and sometimes you need to be both within and outside fashion.
What kind of music do you listen to?
I listen a lot to Metronomy and French singers of the late 70s. Singers that I didn’t listen to at the time, probably because I was your age and at that time it was mostly The Ramones and The New York Dolls. I wasn’t ignorant to their music but it was impossible to pick up that there was good French pop at the time. They looked ridiculous and something I couldn’t register. I’m really amazed by Metronomy though and I’ve worked a little bit with them.
What’s with your statement about hating Rock n’ Roll?
There’s so many brands in Paris started by so many under-gifted people with no sense of styling and copying a lot of brands. They use a lot of Rock n’ Roll signs and icons like guitars, amplifiers, drugs and being a rebel. I made this statement overrating these brands. I don’t hate Rock n’ Roll, I hate them. I think Elvis on cashmere sweater, a poor quality cashmere sweater…
It seems really contrived and unnatural…
Rock n’ Roll has a lot of signs visually and it’s very sexy. It’s easy to write a shirt that says “I’m a Rock n’ Roll Rebel” but it doesn’t mean a thing. That’s why I made this statement about hating Rock n’ Roll. Like analysts would say, it’s like killing my father. Rock n’ Roll is my father but two things.
Could you speak a bit about your Butler series of denim?
My jeans are done in a very good denim. Some people like to wear it in its raw state and never like to wash it which I agree. So what I said, if you give me back your jeans after two years, I’ll exchange it for 60% off. I wash it very carefully, mend it carefully and put a little drawing inside and then sell it. Even if you tell your manufacturer, I want the must beautiful used/washed denim
without any price limits, you’ll never imitate the beauty of personally worn denim. In England’s aristocratic period, they would never wear something brand new cause they would find it vulgar. So they would give it to their butler to wear. We tried to do this in Japan but it didn’t work. People want to keep them and preserve as a memorabilia keepsake. But it worked well in France, Scandalize and America.
Having opened a school last year, what was your reasoning behind it? I know you mentioned the importance of an education when referring to Scandinavian countries.
Yes, Scandinavia’s education system has inspired me. In France, when you go with children to a restaurant, they look at you like a dirty dog. When you’re in Scandinavia, they’re much more welcome and well behaved. To tell you the truth, I wanted to do something really deep and important. I’m not a religious person at all but to me touching education, was like people touching god. It was something holy and very important. I’m happy I did A.P.C., but I’m also happy I did a school, it is something I want to give it to my children. Everybody wants to buy art and keep it on their wall. I thought I’ll take so much money to buy a Warhol, Basquiat, but if you think of the money you invest into art, you could put it into a school, I felt it was a better investment.
We’ve seen a steady move towards fast, accessible fashion such as H&M, Zara and Uniqlo among others, what are your thoughts on that and what effect does it have on a brand like A.P.C.?
It has no effect on A.P.C.. I respect those people cause they have a great sense of logistics and production. But sometimes I hate them because the quality they use is very poor and it is disrespectful to the masses. Sometimes you put something on from them and you stink cause the fiber they use makes you smell “wrong”. While there’s no denying they copy people for their looks, but the problem is they copy too quickly. Patterns aren’t well done and the cuts aren’t good. Their communications relative to their money should hire better photographers and art directors. They have a great capacity for product too bad their efforts are wasted on poor quality offerings. I really mean that but I have a huge respect for them, it’s like running a country what they do. But there’s a lack of thinking.
Interview: Eugene Kan
Photography: Season Chan
