A.P.C.: An Interview with Jean Touitou
Over the years, how would you say the A.P.C. aesthetic has changed or developed? Would you say it has been pretty consistent?
It has been mentally consistent where it hasn’t changed. It’s funny you’re asking me this… yesterday I was on Wyndham Street passing by some Japanese brands and I thought it was good that they sort of woke up and killed minimalism. Some sort of chic minimalism is SO boring. I’m really glad I’m out of that. It’s the most boring thing. I’m glad I did it 15 years ago, 10 years we looked in another direction in the clothing design and architecture of the store.
How important is architecture to each store and packaging the whole A.P.C. aesthetic?
The look is even more interesting and important than the design of the clothes themselves. We have a shop project every so often and every time and it’s more challenging than designing the clothes. Having designed clothes for awhile… I know it very well like dancing or being on your bicycle. I’m not saying its easy, but we know what we’re doing. For a shop, you cannot make a mistake cause you don’t want your shop to look ridiculous after two years. So many shops have been built and you get sick of them after two years. You have to think ahead and maybe create something with a more timeless design that lasts a longer period of time.
What are your current thoughts on the current popularity of American contemporary menswear brands?
There are quite a few good things to come from this. Thom Browne is doing a good job in shaping and proportions. Although in the US, they have too many problems with menswear, the American body is just impossible. It’s impossible to have a huge man look elegant, that’s why in Asia they’re usually more handsome because the proportions are better. In America, they are obsessed in sports. Sometimes you go to Los Angeles, big chest and broad shoulders with skinny legs. So I think that’s a problem in menswear. Second problem is
pricing, there is some good stuff such as Thom Browne and Tom Ford but the price is much too expensive.
What do you usually do you do in your leisure time?
I don’t make a difference between leisure and work. I try to do both of them together because really I find ideas when I’m just sailing on the boat or sometimes when I’m just totally drifting off somewhere else. I try to read as much as I can. It’s the only thing that keeps your head awake.
How does A.P.C. tackle the problem of sizing being a well-known international brand now?
Trying to have clothes ranging from Asia to America and Europe, it’s hard to have a huge range of sizes. That’s the most technically difficult aspect.
I think that seems a big problem for Japanese brands is sizing as well?
Japanese brands don’t expand because they’re really shy. There’s something about the mentality of Japanese people that I don’t get. I’m friends with SOPHNET.’s Hirofumi Kiyonaga, who used to be an assistant of mine in Tokyo. I told him please go to New York, take my showroom, you’re my brother and go and do business. But they don’t go… there’s something about Japanese people being really shy about worldwide business.
I’m sure some of it has to do with the language barrier to a degree?
I don’t know? Probably language barrier. In Japan, sometimes it’s the language barrier but also the morale barrier. Sometimes they can understand you but their way of thinking is so ingrained in “self-punishment”. It’s the culture of not enjoying life. Japanese culture, I think they are very depressed because they cannot express themselves very much. When they do express themselves, it’s about being very very drunk.
